An ode to shengjian bao (生煎包), the greatest, soupiest dumpling of them all. A Shanghai morning staple, they can be had all over the city courtesy of the excellent restaurant chain Yang's Fry (pictured), who's success is a classic rags-to-riches tale for another time. This article was written in enthusiastic tribute at the time a very good little shengjian bao eatery had opened in Beijing, on Gulou West Street. Sadly it didn't last a year. Clearly, northerners prefer jiaozi.