Fatburger, the East Coast chain beloved of hip-hop stars and Hollywood folk, opened in Beijing in 2010. This was my take on the franchise, the prose unashamedly influenced at the time by the devilishly urbane style of Sam Sifton from the New York Times. Reading a Sam Sifton restaurant review was like watching an episode of Mad Men, his eaters an enigmatic cast of high-rollers, crooks and wannabes, the food on the plate mere props. The wine always got a bit more attention. He certainly knows his grapes.