A slice of Italian nouveau riche / by Thomas O'Malley

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Mio at the Four Seasons Beijing is a sight to behold, but what about the pizza? Average. Get the oven hotter, I reckon. But to order pizza here is to miss the point. This is a place to go a little wild. Mio means ‘my’, in that ‘you’ll feel perfectly at home’, according to the hotel literature. But if you do feel perfectly at home amid such a dazzlingly camp study in coloured crystal and chrome, you’re either somewhat over-stimulated or Elton John. The chef - Marco Calenzo - is a wizard at the stove. An amuse-bouche before lunch recently was a mouthful of seared foie-gras with passionfruit. Just imagine those two flavours working together. Yes, and wow.

Click here for my 'official' review of Mio at the Four Seasons Beijing for Forbes Travel.

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